It was in May that I flew to Iraq on the first humanitarian aid mission to land at the Baghdad Airport. It is a landing I won’t easily forget. After all, I was crouched in the bombardier’s window that hung beneath the nose of a giant Russian cargo plane—an Ilyusian-76, it was called.
People have asked me how I felt being in Baghdad: "Was I afraid? Was it exciting? What was it like?" It’s strange, but I’ve found myself answering them by saying something like, "I enjoy being in war zones—I was more excited than afraid."
The truth is, there was never a moment where I felt afraid in Baghdad. Strange as it might seem, I actually like being in places like Baghdad because of the exzcitement. I’ve heard it said that once you’ve experienced a war—I was in Vietnam for a year in 1968 and ‘69—there’s no feeling quite like it!
That means, subconsciously, we old warriors are looking for an adrenaline rush to equal what we’d once experienced. Being in Baghdad in May wasn’t exactly like being in a war. After all, the war had recently been declared over. It’s true there was shooting going on—mostly at night, small arms fire, somewhere in the distance. Also, there were tanks rumbling through the city streets. Every twenty minutes or so at night, two Abrams Tanks sped along the street right below my hotel balcony to remind me where I was. It was hot and there was no electricity for air conditioning so the sliding doors were always wide open.
Driving through the chaos in the streets during the day, passing the endless cars being pushed by angry men in mile long gas lines, being bombarded by all the strange sights and sounds of a city in confusion, all these sorts of things were part of experiencing an occupied city rather than one under siege.
Seeing the buildings charred by bomb blasts, the over turned cars and trucks on the road side, the dazed and confused looks on the faces of the people—the sorts of things you see after the act of war has happened—is what I witnessed.
There was still looting going on. Our driver wanted to show us Saddam’s Secret Police Headquarters and when we were there, in the heavily fortified compound, there were a half-dozen or so men, pulling off the last of the aluminum window frames. The Iraqi who traveled with us as our translator Dr. Badhri, yelled something up at the men in the windows, something that angered them. One of the men came running towards our car. With his fists raised, he argued back at Dr. Badhri about his right to take something back from the building where he’d been held captive.

Lifting his shirt, he revealed a ladder of scars across his stomach. "Saddam, Saddam!" he yelled to make us understand.
This is another vision that sticks in my mind, six months later. The man posed no danger to us really; he was only eager for us to understand why he was looting.
For some reason, maybe because six months has passed, these images are returning to me. Now is the time for me to start to understand the significance of it all. It is time for me to attempt to fold these images—kind of like when I used to watch my grandmother folding different ingredients into the dough of the bread she was making.
All the ingredients somehow, of war, must be combined into the whole of the man I am. I really don’t understand why it is that God has given me the blessing to witness these sorts of scenes, but He has and I’m sure it is for a reason.
Arresting and troubling piece. Aroused a whole range of emotions and thoughts as I read it. One of the reactions I had was the thought that you don't have to go to Baghdad to see such things. If you keep your eyes open and wander away from the gentrified areas anywhere in the world you will see the cruelty and kindness of people.
America may not have a live war within its borders right now, but I saw enough of human nature and social problems in the 20 years I lived there to convince me there is no place in the world where you can escape what people do, America no exception.
In L.A., as someone who looks Mexican or Arab, I've been thrown up against a police car and very roughly frisked by police just for wandering into the "wrong" neighborhood. I've had teenagers in a car throw full beer cans at my bicycle wheels as I toured the verge of the road, trying to cause me to crash, all the while shouting, "******* Ayrab, get off our road!". I've had a guy stick a pistol in my face while working the night shift in Boston. Another guy broke down my door in my apartment in a fit of drunken rage. I watched a Vietnam vet friend of mine in college seeth about the effects of Agent Orange on him. A Vietnamese refugee room mate revealed how his family had been gunned down by American soldiers before he escaped Viet Nam, and now he was living in the very country that had killed his family. And another time in Boston I watched, helpless, as a police officer beat to a bloody pulp a black man who had just been standing waiting for the street light to change.
The seeds of hatred and war lie within America itself, as it does here in Japan where I live, or Germany where I was born. Saddam was a monster, but Bush is no less... he just stands further back and keeps his hands clean.
As your story intimates, the whole issue is complex and confusing. The more you see, the less you know who is right and who is wrong. But to close your eyes to the truth around you is a crime in itself.
Posted by: butuki on December 5, 2003 08:43 PM